Shoe-sewing machine.



T. G. PLANT.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION IIEED MAR. 14, 1908. RENEWED APR. 14, 1909. 940,725. Patented Nov. 23, 1909.

s SHEETS-SHEET a? T. G: PLANT.

4 SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLIOATION FILED MAR. 14, 1908. RENEWED PB. 14, 1909.

Patefited Nov 23,- 1909.

a SHEETS-SHEET '2.

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T. e. 'PLANT. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLIGATION FILED MAB.14, 1908. RENEWED APR. 14; 1909.

"940,725. Patented Nov. 23, 1909..

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- 1 1 .Z /OMASGPLA/VZ' Application filed March 14, 1908, Serial No. 421,108.

THOMAS e. PLANT, or BOSTON, ASSA HUSE TS.

snon-snwme MACHIKE.

To all whom it may concern:

Be itknown that I,- THOMAS G. PLANT, a citizen of the United States, residingatBoston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Shoe-SewingMachines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is'a specification, like characters on the drawings repre-'- senting like parts.

The invention herein to be .describedlre lates to sewing machines, and more part1cu-'- Specification of Letters Patent.

.larlyto that type employed .in sewing boots and shoes.

In stitching soles to boots-andshoes is usual to turn up a lip or flap from'the sole material to form a channel for receiving the line of stitches, and after the com letion of the stitching operation to tu-rn own the previously raised lip to cover the sewing thread. In the subsequentoperation of beat-' ing-out. or leveling, when the sole is sub jected to considerable pressure, it frequently .appens that an impression of-the' line of stitches becomes apparent on the outer sur-' face of the channel lip. This impression will be more orless pronounced in accordance with the size of sewing thread used, the character of sole stock, and other considerations, and constitutes a serious objection in the appearance of the finished sole.

In welted shoes, that is avhere the sole is secured to a welt projecting along the shoe,

contour, thetopsurface of the welt is usually orna-r'nented by a series of indentations, known.-: as. impressions, either in imitation of stitches or'between the stitch loops them-- selves. In. either case, however, the fact that the line of stitches extends along and above the surface of the Welt greatly interferes with the proper formation of the stitch impressions, limits the character thereof,

I and .the' resultant ornamental effect.

Thus,

" as'at present associated with the welted' shoe, the line of stitches, while serving to unite the sole and welt, introduces an objection in the finished character'of the product on both the surface of the sole and surface of the welt.

With these generally stated matters in view, the objectrof the present invention is to provide means whereby the; objections f of stitching that it Wil .finis'hed appearance of the shoe, all as will heretofore present are avoided, and the line not interfere with the proper or other fastenings' so disposed Patented Nov. 23, 1909. Renewed April 14, 1909, Serial No. 189,895.

hereinafter. more fully'appear ji ijcon nction with the following deser1pt1onandaccompanying drawing of one form of the invention selected for elucidationthereof.

1n the drawings:-Figure 1 is a front elevation'of siiflicient of a .bootand shoe sewlng machine makeclear the'association of. the

present: inventiontherewith, parts being brokenaway"; .Fig, 2 is a sectionand side elevation-of the parts indicated in Fig. 1, on

- line 2 -2, vdisclosing the relation of theinvention-with the fastener inserting means, Fig. 3 is an enlarged detail'front view of the :table'or work support, part of which is. broken away, the needle, awl, resser-foot,

and elements constitutin an embodiment of the present invention ;F1g-. 4 is a side elevation of the 'part s" representedj in Fig. 3, I

showing afshoe i'n 'osition, being treated; Fig: 5 is .a detail section on lin'e55' of Fig. 1, showing-more particularly the relation of the resser-foot, the to of the work support," and the upper an lower cutters, other parts being omitted for clea'rness of illustration; Fig. '6; is a sectional detail pnthe line 6--6 off'Fig. 2, illustrating the means for causing the upper cutter "carrier "to move with the awl during the feed; and contrafeed movements; ig. 7 is a s'ectional detail on the line 7- 7 of Fig.1 2'; Fi 8 is a sectional detail 'on the line8y" .8 0 Fig. 2; and

Fig. 9 shows an enlarged section of awelted shoe, having the outsole sewed to the jwelt and the line of stitches countersunk in the channel of thesole and surface 'of the welt.

The invention herein has beenillustrated in connection with a sole sewing machine of the general type of'that disclosed int patent' to F renchfand Meyer, No. 13,870,dated April 26, 1892, to which reference can be,

parts of the machine which do not pertain to the present invention.

I The'needle 1, its actuating means. which causes it to enterthe hole made ifit'he stock by the awl, the'looper 2, the thread holder 3, and their associated actuating mechanism may be of the general character shown and described in the patent above mentioned,or ,otherwise as desired. I

Z Secured to a stationary part of the main frameis the work support 4, having a slot 5 therein "for the passal e of-the awl and needle, as will present y appear, and' disposed above the work support 4 is the conveniently made for a description of those presser-foot 6 carried by a lever .7" fulcru nred l I upon a bracket 8 Figs. 2 and 8, secured to I bein the machine frame, said presser-foot lever 7 preferably mounted to turn upon a bushing!) carried by the bifurcated bracket 8, as indicated in Fig. 8. The portion of .the presser-foot lever Textnding to the rear of the fulcrum point is shown broken away in Fig. 2, but it may be of the general character as indicated in the patent called to attention, or otherwise as desired. I Also fulcrumed upon the bushing 9 is a hand lever 10 adapted, wh en turned clockwise, to engage'a projection 11 on the resser-foot lever and raise the resser-foot from'the work, the said lever and connected parts preferably being of the character shown and described inapplication Ser. No..414,161, filedby me Feb. 4,

Mountedin' the ways or guides 13, Figs. 1 and 2, is the feed slide 12, having connected thereto a feed regulating lever 14, pro- .vided with a'block or roll 16, which engages a curved groove or slot 17 in the arm. 15 of a 'lever 18 fulcrumed centrally on a stand 19,"

and having'an arm 20, which by means of a roll 21 engages a cam groove 22 of a cam 23 mounted on the main shaft of the machine, all substantially as shown and described in the patent to French and-Meyer, of 1892, to

which reference may be had, and which, be ing fully disclosed therein and well understood by those skilled in the art, needs no port for the awl segment 25 and its connect- .further'description-here. V Projecting upward from thi feed slide 12 is the feed arm 24 which furnishes as'uped awl 26, so that .as the feed slide is reciprocalted from the cam 23 it will impart to the awl a reciprocating movement in the direction of feed and return, the'timing of the elements beingsuch that the former of these movements occurs while the awl is in the work, and the latter when the awl has been l' withdrawn, with the result that the work is fed by the awl and then clamped and heldv in place by the presser-foot and needle as the awl returns to its initial position, as will be readily understoodby those skilled inthe art and from the'discl'osure in the hereinbefore mentioned patent;

In,,the illustrated. form of the invention;

the awlsegment 25 is mounted on a stud 27, Figs. 6 and 7 held in the bearing 28 ofthe feed arm 24, said stu'd beingheld rigidly in its bearin s b a set scr w ae, Fi .7. A

ammo is threaded into one 'end fojf the stud 27,"afwasher;31;being interposed between the, head 1 h Screw, "13,0" and the. e r-H124;

The bppos'ite end "of the 1 27, is, enlarged: and preferably formed as' af-jcutter carrier]: 32 i n a we, ,Fisi ;5 a -.3

ing "ki l are u in ed e t-w h faces upward andin akjdirect'i'oir opposite to the "feeding movement, as will, be ap arent from Figs-.3

end portion of the knife carriergarm',--the knife 34 projecting upward a desirable dis tance therefrom to form a cut 86 in, the sure:

face of the welt, as indicatedin Figs..4 and9.

From the construction thus far described it will be noted that the work is supported on the work support 4, Fig. 4; .that the awl, by means of its segment and actuating means, is caused to rise throughthe slot-'5 of the work support and penetratethe work. At this time the needle 1 is moved toraised position and the presser-foot 6' is relieved from clamping pressure u on thework, as

well understood by those amiliar with this type of machine.

The feed slide is then moved in the direction of feed, or to the 1:

left, Fig; 1, and the awl and knife 34 being then in the work give proper feed movement thereto,.after which the awl is withdrawn from the work, followed closely by the needle 1, and the presser-foot clamps the work. The feed slide then moves in the opposite direction carrying the awl and knife 84, the latter at such timecutting a slit or score in the surface of-the welt the r "length of a stitch. i I

If it is desired that the sewing thread be not visible at -all upon the sur ace of the welt, the'slit or score made by the knife 84 may be sufliciently deep to permit the thread to sink below the surface of the welt and lie entirely concealed.- This is sometimes (lg-5' sirable, and enables the sti ch impression tool to act upon the smooth unobstructed surface of the welt in the production of regular and '2 well defined indentations or im ressions. I If, on the other hand, it is desirab to have the stitches sunk to a less depth, it 1s only-necessary .to provide a de irable size of ,knife,

which, in the present orm of thecinvention can be done by substituting a stud5-2'IZ, having an appropriateknife, for that previously em loyed.. f

bviously it is not necessary to have the;

,stud27. and knife carrier formed in me s represented by the present illustrated:.iforr'n .[of the invention, the essential.- being thati a? knife shall be supported aloi' gside but; indee pendent of the: awl to -;l n:ve a movement "and areturn movement, and that in suchreturn morement,while the work is securely v heldfby appropriate means, it shall form a therewith in the direction of the line of feed, '3

I in the bottom of the previously formed chancarrier or arm 40., carriedof the line of feed said cut awayportion of carrying end thereof seated against the noted.

that when the channel flap or 38 is posed above the channel surface. 'Asone g means of forming'this groove or cut 1n'the' a t f di channel, but without circumscribmg the in-' qtion the resser-foot 6 is cut away,

'return, as will presently appear.

likewise ra e the knife end of the carrier,as will be'apparent. I I .The. upper knife 39 is preferably disposed out or score in the work in which the line of stitches may sink more or. less. In the present iuventionthis' cut or score isformed in the surface of the welt so that the line of stitches will not interfere with the proper ornamentation of the welt, as hereinbefore In order to prevent the line .01} stitchesshowing upon the surface of the sole as im-' prints developed during the leveling or. beating-out processes, the present invention contemplates the formation'of av score or .cut

.nel, as indicated at 37, Fig. 9,- into'which the floating loops of thread may sink, so.

turned down it may assume its former natural position in the channel and not raised'by or rest upon loops of thread 'd1s-' vention by particulars of the'structur'e' selected for illustrative purposes, the upperknife 39 is mounted upon an upper lmifeg; ye P F 2 and 8, adapted to rotate and slide within the bushing 9 upon which is mounted the-f presser-foot lever '7, said resser-foot and upper knife carrier thus being mounted; to turn about the 'same axial center,yet upon. relatively movable elements. 1 I The presser-foot 6, adjacent to or above the worksupport, has its end turnedin the direction of the lineof feed,'asindicated in Figs. land 2, its-lower surface being preferably provided with spurs 42 to engage the work. At its front or work. engaging poras at 43, to receive the end of the upper knife carrier 40, which is likewise-turned in the direction the resser-foot thus affording a passageway for the end as the knife carrier during its movement in the direction of feed and Secured to the pin 41 is an arm or stud 44 to which is connected one end of a spring 45, Figs. 1 and 2, acting normally toturn the pin 41 in a direction to lift the connected knife carrier 40, and maintain the'knife shoulder 46, Figs. 3'and 5, of the presser-- foot 6. The result is that while the presserfoot 6 and upper knife carrier 40 may move independently or relativelyin the direction of work feed and return, yet the knife carrier is maintained in its operative position by the overlying shoulder 46 of the presserfoot, and should the presser-foot at any time be raised from the work, the spring 45.-will 7 directly above the lower knife 34,'so that relation is not essential.

' clamped,

"position, said carrier,

the awl penetrates the work it passes close to each of .these knives, although this exact To insure the cutting action of the upper knife-inthe bottom ofithe previously formed channel while the wo ik'is properly held or and produce the cut in proper relation to the stitch formation, it is desirable that the cut in thebottom of the channel I and surface of thewelt be produced the length .of a stitch andas close to the pre- 'viously formed stitch as, possible, so that curves and turns may be made'imthe line of pronounced curve in the shoe'contoiipg. and

yet, such linof "stitches always properly ocstitches as it passes around the toeor'oth'er cupy-the cut or'score. To this end the 'upper knife carrier is connected with the feed SlililGSO as to partake of the feeding and movements thereof, and consequently form a cut the length of a stitch which is, of course, defined by the length of feed movement. ing' the upper mechanism, the upper part of the feed arm .24, Fig. 6, is provided LWlth a recess 47" in which thecar'rier rests when in operative extending from its supportingpin 41 over the top of the feed arm 24, and preferably being provided with a recess 48 to embrace a as indicated in Fig. 4,

As one means of connect-. knife carrier to the. feeding part of the stud 27 on which the awl segmentand lower knife carrier are mounted.

The recess 47 may be made in the face of the arm 24 adjacent the awl. segment 25, in-

which case the awl segment itself forms one wall of the recess for receiving the carrier 40, Fig. 6. From this construction it will.

be noted that, while the upper knife carrier his free to be turned up from or down upon the work with be held upon the work in operative rela-: 'tion thereto by the resser-foot, and will the overhanging shoulder 46, Figs..3 and 5, ofthe presser-foot,-it will also be moved with the lower-knife carrier and awl in the feeding and return -movel ments, the action of the upper knife carrier being permitted by its carrying 'pin .41, which is free to move-longitudinally inits bearing, as previously described. v

It is desirable at, times to va acter or form of cut, made by a l of the carrier with-,a'

D 1.15- thecharnife, or to substitute one for another for. various rea sons, and "as one means of readily. securing this end, the present perforation and detachably mountingther'ein the knife, as 39, I being-formed of steel on the end of a wirelike shank portion 49, Fig. 3, which snugly fits the said perforation.

Fig, 3, the said knife39 "r25 4 The frictional hold of the shank 49 against the'walls of. 4

the perforation is s'ufiicient to maintain the knife in position, andyet the snug fit perniits the knife to be readily driven out and another substituted when desired.

The drawings show an'edge gage 50 which may or may not be employed, and as it forms no part of the present invention a de- What I claim 1s 3 15A sewing 'machliie compr1s1ng, 1n comscription thereof is unnecessary.

The awl segment having the usual teeth is operated in a well understood manner 1 from the toothed actuator 51 to raise the awl' and cause it to penetrate the work, and then withdraw it for the passage of the needle.

From the construction described it will be noted that, in securing the outsole of a boot qor shoe to the welt, the shoe S, Fig; 4, 1s

usua'llyplaced in working position with the surface of the welt resting upon the work support 4-, the I presser foot being lowered upon the work to hold it as indicated. With the parts in this position, the awl first rises close alongside theupper and lower knives 39 and 34 respectively, and penetrates the work, the knives at such time sinking in the being cut lllttlthfl surface-of t bottom of the previously formed channeland surface of the welt. The feed slide is then actuated, the awlbeing in the work and the pressure of the pressure-foot being relieved.

to a degree at 1e ist, as well understood. Such feeding movement carries the awl and with it the work, and the upper and lower knives laterally the length of a stitch, whereupon of this work, closely followed by the needle,

and the clamping action of the presser-footis restored. The feed slide is then moved to its initial position, carrying with it the awl,

and upper and lower knives, which cut or score the bottom of the channel and surface of the welt respectively the length of a stitch. It will be noted that the saldknives produce their cuts substantially from the. point where the needle is forming the stitch,

and. out from said point only the distance necessary for the next stitch, said cuts being both made in the direction of the line ofstitches; in other words, the cuts are produced only from the last stitch the distance of a stitch length so that, in passing around the toe or other pronounced curves, the;

float or upper portion of 'the stitch loop will necessarily occupy thecutprscore' produced. It will be observed alsoitliat the cuts or scores made in the mannerdescribed will be uniform in'character andof'like depththroughout," so that the sewing'thread will have the'saxn'e relation to the surface oftthe workthroughout the line of stitches; It is to be noted also that the-cut or'score'pro- I duced by one of the knives is in the bottom ol' a" prcviously formed channel the otherv he welt, so

' that inv-the beating-out or leveling opera lions upon the sole'fiindin the stitch impression of the Walt, properly finished and ornamental surfaces may he produced.

'ture" herein presented '10 n'g'o l many Incchan'icalje the wor said u per and the awl is nzpved downward and out stitch receiving 'ing. slits, and :means actuatedI-by thew'awI j clamped upon f the i work support t fifoim To those skilled in the art, changes i11 form, character, or relation parts; suggest themselves, the? attic-un st struc onset the k, the invention may assume.

bination, stitch v forming means, anj swi means to cause thejawltopenetrate; the 7:5 work, an upper and "a lowerwork' slitting device disposed adjacent the plane of'inovement of said awl asfit penetrates "the work, means to move the awl, 'and'said slitting devices to ether in the line of feed, and-with as the latter is fed, and tojreturn the mid and said slitting devices. to initial position to cause the slitting devices toslit thework. c V 2. A mwing machine comprising, in com bination, stitch forming means, work feed-f i ing means, upper and lower slitting devieesl to act upon the work in the production of 1 7 stitch receivin' rslits, and means to c.

ower slitting devices to move 9 c with t e work inthe line of feed and bac to initial position to out their respective slits during such backward movement. j p

3. sewing machine comprising, in com-'- I bination,ystitch forming means, work feeding means, uppei and lower slitting devices to act upon the work'in the production of slits, and connections 'he'- tween said slitting devices and'feedingmeans to cause said upper and lower slitting do 9' vices to move wlth. the-work during-feed a movement, and relatively to thefwork' m 7 their contra-feed movement't cut'their re'- c spective slits. a v a 4. A sewin machine comprising, in combination, stitc forming means, awl fee ing I means, a work support, an" upper, and a lower work slitting device '.toactuponfthe I work on the work support in?thefproductionf] of stitch receiving slits, and'connections be.- 1 tween the awl feeding "means and saidslit-" ting devices tocause them to partake of the movements ofthe-awl feeding means. I

5. Ina shoe sewing machme, the combi nation of stitch forming and awl feeding means, a work support, means to clamp an I release the work upon the work support ,np- I per and lower slitting device's to act-upon the work in the production of stitchreceiv':

feeding meansto; im ammdva mq e v said upper and i lower" slittin' ,"device's-"in a direction opposite the feed'whrle-the work s their respective slits c. I -a fs'hoesewing mach-inc, the combination of stitch forming'andwork-feeding means, a work su po -11, submitting s and a welt slitting devicegppos'itely; sposed; in the lineof ormat'on n A in:

adapted to receive the work between them,

and connections between said sole and 'welt slitting devices and the work feeding means to cause said slitting device's to travel with the work during feed movement and to travel relatively to the work and form their respective slits between'feed movements.

7. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming and work feeding means, a work support, a resser-foot movable toward and from said work support, oppositely disposed slitting devices to act upon the opposite surfaces of "the work in the production of stitch receiving slits, and means connecting said devices with the work feeding means to'c'ause said oppositely disposed" slitting devices to produce their respective slits. v

8. In a shoe sewing machine," the combination of'stitchforming means, anawl and its operating connection for causing it to penetrate and withdraw from the work, a rising and falling presser-foot, an upper knife carrier associated with said resser-foot to rise and fall therewith, a lower knife carrier, means for imparting movement to the awl in the direction of feed and return, and connections. between said means'and said knife carriers to impartcorresponding movements thereto. I Y

9. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming means, an awl, a feed slide carrying said awl, means for causing the awl to penetrate the work and withdraw therefrom, a lower knife carrier connected to said feed slide to move therewith, slitting knife mounted on said carr-1er,-'and means to reciprocate said feed slide to give to said awl and lower knife carrier movement with the work in the direction of :feed

and movement relative to said work in the] opposite direction to return theaw l and;

slitting knife to initial position .and cause a the slitting knife to slit the work on such return movement.

10. In a shoe sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming means,'a work sup-' port, a feedslide and its actuating means, a lower slitting knife, a lower knife carrier on which said knife is mounted, connections between the carrier and said feed slide,'anawl segment also mounted on said feed slide, and

an awl carried by said segment, said awl and slitting knife being disposed in the line of stitch formation and means to reciprocate the feed slide to cause the awl and knife to move with the work in the line of feed and the knife to slit the work on its return move- 

